CHINA, DAYS FOUR AND FIVE

        When we arrived in Kunming via Chinese Airlines, it was only to change planes with our next destination Lijiang where we spent two days. There we were transferred to the Garden Villa, Guanfang Hotel. It wasn’t a hotel as much as it was a complex of condominiums. (photo 1)

At that time, there were more and more Chinese who were becoming affluent enough to go on vacation. Lijiang was a vacation destination. The next morning, we saw the sign that greeted us until we moved on to our next destination. (photo 2)

On this, our fourth day, we were scheduled to attend a lecture about the Naxi People and the Dongba Culture at 9:00 am at the hotel. The woman (photo 3) who gave the lecture was very well educated and the information she provided very interesting. The people who live here are a minority and their culture unlike that of other Chinese cultures. I believe there is some concern the culture will eventually disappear. I don’t remember much from the lecture, but the dress and way of living is very different. Then we boarded a bus for the Baihua Village. I don’t remember much about this village aside from it was hot and we visited a Naxi farm. We could climb up the side of the hill on a path. Some of our group chose to do so…John and I did not. This also may have been our first exposure to a Chinese bathroom. (photo 4) You really need strong thigh muscles in order to utilize. Then, we had lunch with Mr. Mu, whose farm we were visiting. The food was excellent and very fresh.

From there, we went to the Black Dragon Pool which is known for water that appears to be green shining jade as well as the Naxi style bridges and buildings. (photo 5) This was a very beautiful location and adjacent was Plum Garden, Dongba Cultural Research Institute. Here, paper was made using a method handed down from generation to generation. (photo 6) We were invited to purchase paper and have what appeared to be the elder (photo 7) write on the paper in Naxi whatever phrase we presented in English. We could also purchase sayings that had already been written. I have three such Naxi writings framed and hanging on my wall. I only wish I could remember what they say, especially the one about Haley Autumn, special granddaughter.

When we left Black Dragon Pool, we went to the Ancient City also known as Lijiang Old Town. We would return there the following afternoon as well, so I’m going to combine both afternoons. It’s history dates back 800 years and it is a World Culture Heritage site with the Jade Dragon Mountain in the background. According to the written information provided, it is unlike other historical and cultural cities in China because it exists in great harmony with the natural environment. The town is built in a simplistic style with trees planted in front of each home and the streets are made of cobblestones, so they are never dusty or muddy. In one place (photo 8) there was a sign I found very interesting:

THREE WELLS SYNOPSES was the title followed by a paragraph, i.e., “The water is good for the myriad things but do not struggle” The water also is the scarce resources which easiest to pollute. The pastoral stage, Naxi ancients’ occupies by the water plant, regards the water for the life fountainhead. Plough settles down the time; they pilot into the village, as soon as divides into three. Enjoy comfortably is convenient near the water live. To the cities time has created “three wells” culture. Divides into three ponds well water a water seepage, first makes the tap water; the second does washes the vegetable water; and the third does washes the water. Water three uses, did not struggle, does not snatch, has manifested the Naxi nationality  awe nature, treasured the environment the fine tradition.

  

        What I understood from this is the Naxi revere the water that runs throughout the Ancient City. The people who live here use the surrounding water for many things, i.e., as a refrigerator to wash their food, clothes, selves, etc. There is a third well that isn't in the photo. 

We were given free time both days and wandered all through the town and observed construction. John and Buck were very interested in both the building using fairly modern tools as well as building with bricks or big rocks to make the side of a home. (photos 9 & 10)

We saw an old truck with a Spiderman motif (photos 11 and 12) carrying construction materials There was a location where material was dyed and hung to dry and which you could purchase. Artists were drawing and painting various scenes. At one point, Claudia and I went down one street quite a way and judging by the peoples’ reactions, most visitors did not venture that far. That was where we saw a mother pull her child’s pants apart at the crotch so she could squat in the gutter and pee…no diapers, just a slit in the jumper for easy access. Had never heard of or seen that, but according to one of our leaders, it’s quite common.

In one area was an open-air food market where various chefs were making street food for people in the community. And then there were the dancers or performers. We don’t know the purpose, but it was enjoyable to watch. We also saw a donkey on which we could have purchased a ride. We all laughed because John’s feet would have touched the ground once he was on the donkey. We didn’t partake of food at this location, but it smelled wonderful. And, I love the photo of the old woman who danced. (photos 13-18)

We had dinner in Lijiang Old Town that evening, followed by attendance at a modern Naxi musical entitled “Lishyuijinsha” and returned to the hotel at 10:00 pm. (photos 19-23)

A couple of things I wanted to mention about our stay in Lijiang. First, apparently there's something you put in when you plumb bathrooms that keeps the sewage smell from rising. That hadn't been done in this beautiful new condominium and we had to keep the bathroom door closed because it smelled so bad. At this point, I also had some laundry done and they must have used the hottest water possible. My most favorite top came back with the red color much lighter. Finally, the second night we stayed there we were given what is considered not exactly a delicacy, but close...glasses of warm goat's milk. John was forced to drink it when he was recovering from polio and he wouldn't even taste or smell. I did, but one little taste was more than enough. I felt so very guilty because we poured the milk down the smelly toilet. Something nice though were these little tiny shopping-bag style carriers that held a single chocolate that were placed on our pillows.

The following day we visited a couple of different villages, had lunch back at the hotel and checked out. We spent the afternoon once again in Lijiang Old Town and from there went to the airport. We flew to Kunming, had dinner (my booklet says banquet) in the airport and then boarded a plane that took us to Chengdu. We arrived at our hotel at 10:30 pm. Is it any wonder we were exhausted after only five days...and there's much more to come.

CHINA, DAYS TWO AND THREE

          In case you hadn’t noticed in day one, our schedule was filled from early morning until night. I was thankful for the bus rides because it gave me a chance to rest a bit, and it was also very good for John because his ability to walk long distances for long periods was not very good.

Our second day’s itinerary included a trip to the Great Wall, lunch at The Friendship Store Restaurant, followed by a visit to the Ming Tombs and dinner at the Peking Duck Restaurant with the Vice President of Beijing People’s Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries. We returned to our hotel at 8:30 pm. And, I had the time wrong for the first day…we got back to the hotel at 9:00 pm.

The Great Wall of China is amazing. I don’t know how long it would take to walk along the entire distance, but just walking up the steps at Badaling was a lot of exercise. Then, once you’re on top of the wall, you can walk in either direction and reach the watchtowers in which sentries could live and store weapons. The wall is built of large rectangular granite stones and bricks. It is over 25 feet high in most places and wide enough that five horses could gallop abreast or ten people could march shoulder to shoulder.

To imagine how this was built using only human labor and no modern equipment like bulldozers or tractors is almost impossible. There were huge crowds of people, mostly Chinese, who were visiting too. Something else I found amazing was how well-dressed many of the Chinese were, including high heels for the women. I simply cannot imagine climbing those steps or walking on the wall in shoes like that.

After the Great Wall, we stopped at a cloisonné factory and were provided with a tour that illustrated how this beautiful artwork is made. It’s quite the process and takes some time. We were shown metal objects prior to having metal compartments (cloisons in French) added to the base object. Then, depending on the design, enamel powder paste or other materials are used to fill in the various compartments to make a design. Once it’s finished, it has to be fired in a kiln and then polished. Originally cloisonné was used mainly for jewelry or small objects. When this enamel technique came to China in the 14^th century the Chinese adapted it to larger items like bowls and vases. At that time, it was only used by the royal families as a symbol of authority and status. The photos show a work in progress and a finished work. Very interesting.

Most meals in China, if not all, were at round tables with a large Lazy Susan (don’t know what the Chinese call these) in the middle of the table. Dishes were brought out and placed on the turntable, and as it went around, you helped yourself from whichever dish caught your fancy. What was amazing was the number of dishes that were brought to each meal (with the exception of breakfast which was a buffet), and none of them ever included rice. In China, rice is a poor person’s meal. In all the time we were there, rice was served only once and then because it was requested by someone.

Something else we learned is the importance of your party is indicated by the number of dishes served. Now I cannot read Chinese, but understood the newspaper indicated the Chinese head of state, visiting the United States while we were in China, was provided dinner by Bill Gates. Even though only the best of everything available was served, it amounted to very few courses…not honorable.

I’d also like to say that I tried everything offered and it was nothing like what we call Chinese food in America. It was delicious and only once did I very carefully spit something into my napkin. I have no idea what it was, but it looked like clear gummy bears and tasted like a very nasty rotten fish.

Bellies full, we clambered back on the bus and headed for the Ming Tombs. This is an amazing place. There is a promenade with large carved people and animals on each side. These included elephants, horses, turtles, camels, noblemen, all absolutely beautiful. A very nice walk on a very nice spring day.

It has been many years, so my memory may not be exact, but I believe it was at the Peking Duck restaurant that we were served Peking duck. The entire duck is cooked, and you may partake of any portion of it you like. Everyone but John was grossed out by the head and John ate several. He said they were very tasty.

The following morning our luggage had to be out the door by 7:30 am. Following breakfast, we headed for Tian’anmen (that’s how it appears in Chinese printing) Square. This is where the People’s Republic of China was proclaimed in 1949. IT is also the largest city square in the world. We did not get a chance to see Chairman Mao’s tomb or Chairman Mao lying in state therein because the line was hours long. It is always hours long. There was no discussion about what had happened in that square all those years ago.

Here I’ve included a photo of the entire group that went on this tour. I also scanned a postcard I bought because I wanted to talk about the flowers. China must have the largest greenhouses in the world. When you see plantings like this, they are not placed in the earth. Pots containing the flowers are placed adjacent each other to create what you see on this postcard. I have no idea how often they have to water or replace the various plants, but it has to be way more work than planting in dirt and watering. 

For lunch, we had fast food at the airport and departed for Kunming. Below I’ve placed some additional photos just FYI.

Glass staircase in Hotel Beijing

CHINA, DAY ONE

For part of the time I worked at Woodland Park Zoo, Dave Towne was my boss. He was also the President of the Giant Panda Conservation Foundation which was established in 1984. Dave only relinquished his position a few years ago, and it’s really thanks to him the giant pandas were saved even though you won’t read that anywhere…Dave doesn’t like being honored or thanked.

Anyway, while I worked for Dave, at least once year I had to get his Chinese Visa renewed, usually at the last minute via FedEx overnight and pack up gifts for him to give to his Chinese hosts. Each time I’d tell him that one of those times I was going to go along.

Dave and his wife Chris actually led a tour in 2001 for 14 people. John tried to get me to sign myself up, but they were leaving a week after we’d get back from Kenya and I just felt after a year’s cancer treatment and a trip half way around the world, I shouldn’t push my luck and try to cram in China too…good thing because my thyroid died in Kenya.

Anyway, move ahead to 2006. Dave was no longer my boss, but he was planning a reunion tour of the group that went in 2001. For some reason, he didn’t have a lot of takers…I heard later most of the people on the tour thought this one difficult couple were sure to go so said no thank you. Well, that was great because that meant John and I could go. It also meant Claudia (who became my best friend) and her husband Buck could go. And, so we did.

It was a very long plane ride to Beijing with a plane change in Tokyo. We arrived after dark and looking down from the plane, it didn’t look much different than what you would see when landing at any other city. We were met by the Chinese individuals who would tour us around China. We were transferred to the Beijing Hotel and given the itinerary for the “Delegation of American Panda Foundation” for the next three days. We had both a Beijing guide and a National guide.

When we woke up the following morning, we looked out our hotel window. Far below us were Chinese workers who were reclaiming bricks and other materials from a building that had been demolished. Nothing goes to waste. Also below were a row of what had to be more than a hundred bicycles which the construction and hotel workers had undoubtedly ridden in to their jobs. We could also see quite a bit of the city, but the smog gave everything a gray cast.

Breakfast was at 7:30 the next morning after which we went to the Forbidden City. This would be our first interactions with the Chinese people who lived there or were visiting. They are extremely rude and we soon discovered if we wanted to get to the head of the line or to the front to see an exhibit, waiting wasn’t going to get us there. Quite amazing really. 

At the Forbidden City, as we were waiting to enter, there was a group of Chinese Army men practicing on the other side of the moat. All looked to be fairly young, in green uniforms and very serious about their maneuvers. We had two hours to go through the Forbidden City and it is a very large place with lots of art and information. The photo shows only a portion of a plaza. Unfortunately, some of the buildings were being restored because of the upcoming Olympics in 2008. What was wonderful about the restoration was the fact artisans who knew how to make the various things like roof tiles were brought in, so the restoration wouldn’t be coming out of a factory. The craft would live on. The photo shows one of the roofs what would not need restoration.

If you know anything about China, the roofs and decorations were just as you would imagine. One of the first exhibits we saw was the Bao HE Dian or Hall of Preserved Harmony. It was constructed in 1420, destroyed by fire and reconstructed many times. It was also given many different names with the one cited the latest. What was interesting is below the signage was the following notice, “Made possible ty the American Express Company.” The adjacent photo is of the throne inside this exhibit. 

The photo of the stone carving also came with signage. It is the largest stone carving in the palace weight more than 200 tones, hence th44 name Large Stone Carving. It was carved out of a huge natural stone in the Ming Dynasty when the three main halls were built. In 1761, the original patterns on the stone were removed and new patterns carved. It was interesting to read how this huge stone was originally moved. They did it in winter by sprinkling water and making an iced road and then pulled to the palace on that road.

I could have spent way more time in the Forbidden City looking at so many different things. I also took way m ore photos than I’m sharing here, like this one of the ceiling in one of the last buildings in the city. Beautiful. There was also a very old tree that looked as though it, and it may have, had grown there for centuries. Somehow, it remains alive. There was signage, but I didn’t take a photo so I cannot tell you much.

We left the Forbidden City to go have lunch at a Beijing resident’s home. Not only did we have lunch, but were taught how to make lettuce roll-ups. That’s John making his roll-up, although he refused to eat one. He was sure the lettuce had been washed in tap-water and didn’t want to end up with Montezuma’s (should have learned what it’s called in Chinese) revenge. They rest of us ate them with gusto and we were all fine…John missed out.

Next on our agenda was the Hutong tour which is a word for neighborhood. The one we visited in Beijing was the one where you would go if you were young and wanted to have a good time in the evenings. Our tour was via bicycle rickshaw. Even though the yoyung man wasn’t running and pulling us, I was so uncomfortable being hauled along like that. We also learned, I think, that the river that runs through the Hutong we visited was originally dug by people. Someone important wanted a river to flow there. I tried to look it up to be sure of my memory, but could not find it. 

     Then, it was back on the bus and off to the Summer Palace. Oh my gosh, what a beautiful place. There were lots of metal sculptures like the one in the photo, and the pavilion beside the lake was gorgeous. We heard a story about the royal women who lived in this palace. Whenever there was a war and the enemy was getting close, they would throw their valuables into the lake to save them. If memory serves, at some point the lake was drained and a fortune in valuables recovered. 

We were given dinner at the Quanmen Hotel and then attended the Peking Opera at the Liyuan Theatre. I don’t seem to have any photos of the opera, but I do have quite an elaborate program that contains explanations and information in Chinese, English, French and possibly another language. The opera was very enjoyable and interesting, especially since the program was so informative. The photo is, I believe, my ticket, but also a post card I could mail if I chose.

When the opera ended, we were taken back to the Beijing Hotel…it was then 8:00 pm. What a very full, fascinating, interesting and wonderful first day. Perhaps there’s going to be way more posts than I thought since I’m having such fun going through the photos, scrapbook, memories and sharing.                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

JAPANESE ANEMONE, ERRANDS AND WHINING

         

It seems as though I'm running out of flowers with which to begin my posts. This may be the last one. My friend Claudia gave me a Japanese anemone some years ago and it's grown quite a lot. In fact, it's moved in on my biggest hellebore. If the Hummingbird Vine doesn't take them both over before fall, I'm going to have to dig and transplant to a larger area. You know, my back hurts when I look out at the garden and think of everything I need to do. 

        Today (Monday) I went to the post office and it was still there and still open. I went in order to send photos of John and the woman (Susan) he dated in his senior year to Susan. When the Lincoln High Alumni Association (LLAA) posted the list of graduates who had passed away, this woman made a donation to the Lincoln High Alumni Scholarship fund. I thought that was very kind of her and wrote a thank-you note which was forwarded to her by someone on the LLAA board.

I, of course, knew about Susan before John and I ever married. I knew he thought of her with affection and was delighted one year when he received a flower arrangement from her for his birthday. I thought it was very kind and generous for her to make a donation in remembrance of him.

When I was going through stuff in the garage, I believe I wrote about the scrapbooks I found that dated back to John’s polio days and his high school years. I don’t remember if I posted that I found three cardboard holders with a photo of John and Susan in each. Two of them also held the invitation and/or dance cards. One was the senior prom. When I first met John, he told a story about drinking mustard on a dare to earn money for the prom. He really did like mustard…a lot.

Anyway, in my thank you note to Susan, I told her I’d found these photos and offered to send them to her if she would like to have them. I received a very nice card in return and yes, she would like the photos. She said she’d never forgot John or the time they spent together but thought John being her first big crush probably had something to do with that. In any case, I was glad to send them off to her with the hope they bring her happy memories.

Following the post office, I went to Costco for gas and a couple of other things. It was already so hot, I debated with me and myself about purchasing a fan. Now, I know we had a number of fans around here and/or in the garage, but do you think a single one was found when Haley and I worked in the garage…NOPE!!! I argued with me and myself about just going home and dragging the portable AC out and setting it up. I and myself didn’t want to, so they forced me to go to Home Depot and buy a new box fan. I just plugged it in and it’s blowing cool air on me as I type…love it.

The trip to HD was also worth it because I checked for and found ammonia…lemon scented no less. I bought two bottles, so the cleaning I mentioned several posts ago can now proceed. I mean you really cannot clean windows unless you have ammonia and white vinegar. Now, I have no excuse unless I want to use the one about it being too hot to do anything besides lay in front of my new fan.

My new fan may also keep the doggies away. They both like to lay on me even when it’s hot, although Kaizer moves away fairly soon because he’s a little hottie. Karma is laying in the front room in the sun and Kaizer is by her but not in the sun. It’s funny how their bellies turn pink and white over the winter, but once the sun begins to shine, that pink and white becomes very dark, maybe even black. I wonder if they suffer reverse vitiligo?

I was also talking to friend this morning and she saw an interview by Anderson Cooper with the Washington State Attorney General. Apparently, more than three million people voted by mail-in or drop-in ballots and out of that huge number, only 142 were found to be fraudulent. I’m hoping she can find a link to that interview and post it on Facebook. I would repost it and ask everyone who sees to repost it as well. I mean, seriously, voting by mail isn’t calculus unless you take into account what that tRump and his USPS person are attempting to do. OMG, isn’t there some way we can get him arrested and thrown in jail NOW? I certainly hope Pelosi and the House can get the USPS back on track.

Many many posts ago, I referenced Stephen King’s book, THE STAND. Even Mr. King was unable to write a dissertation as scary as what we are living through. Yes, there was a virus. Yes, lots of people died. Yes, strange things happened, but he didn’t put an idiot in the White House (that idiot died in the book if he was an idiot), or a bunch of other idiots who were trying to change the entire country in very negative ways. No, there were no major protests or interactions between people and the police, but that’s because the majority of everyone actually died. I sometimes think it might be better for all if our pandemic was more closely tied to what Mr. King wrote. Of course, then most of us except for a very small percentage would be dead.

Seriously, I don’t have any answers; and even if I did, how would I get people to listen? It just seems to me that we keep going on day to day without making any positive progress or being led by anyone who offers positive progress. Once again, people in Seattle protested and protesters and policemen alike were injured. How does that help anyone or anything? And it’s not that I don’t see a need for change because I do, it just seems like the methods of getting that change done are more divisive and harmful than not.

Okay, climbing down off the soapbox. Think I’ll take a look at my China scrapbooks and digital photos so I can regale you for a few days with memories of that trip. It will undoubtedly require more than the two posts I did for Kenya…we were gone for almost three weeks and traveled all around China. The best trip ever.