CHINA, DAYS FOUR AND FIVE

        When we arrived in Kunming via Chinese Airlines, it was only to change planes with our next destination Lijiang where we spent two days. There we were transferred to the Garden Villa, Guanfang Hotel. It wasn’t a hotel as much as it was a complex of condominiums. (photo 1)

At that time, there were more and more Chinese who were becoming affluent enough to go on vacation. Lijiang was a vacation destination. The next morning, we saw the sign that greeted us until we moved on to our next destination. (photo 2)

On this, our fourth day, we were scheduled to attend a lecture about the Naxi People and the Dongba Culture at 9:00 am at the hotel. The woman (photo 3) who gave the lecture was very well educated and the information she provided very interesting. The people who live here are a minority and their culture unlike that of other Chinese cultures. I believe there is some concern the culture will eventually disappear. I don’t remember much from the lecture, but the dress and way of living is very different. Then we boarded a bus for the Baihua Village. I don’t remember much about this village aside from it was hot and we visited a Naxi farm. We could climb up the side of the hill on a path. Some of our group chose to do so…John and I did not. This also may have been our first exposure to a Chinese bathroom. (photo 4) You really need strong thigh muscles in order to utilize. Then, we had lunch with Mr. Mu, whose farm we were visiting. The food was excellent and very fresh.

From there, we went to the Black Dragon Pool which is known for water that appears to be green shining jade as well as the Naxi style bridges and buildings. (photo 5) This was a very beautiful location and adjacent was Plum Garden, Dongba Cultural Research Institute. Here, paper was made using a method handed down from generation to generation. (photo 6) We were invited to purchase paper and have what appeared to be the elder (photo 7) write on the paper in Naxi whatever phrase we presented in English. We could also purchase sayings that had already been written. I have three such Naxi writings framed and hanging on my wall. I only wish I could remember what they say, especially the one about Haley Autumn, special granddaughter.

When we left Black Dragon Pool, we went to the Ancient City also known as Lijiang Old Town. We would return there the following afternoon as well, so I’m going to combine both afternoons. It’s history dates back 800 years and it is a World Culture Heritage site with the Jade Dragon Mountain in the background. According to the written information provided, it is unlike other historical and cultural cities in China because it exists in great harmony with the natural environment. The town is built in a simplistic style with trees planted in front of each home and the streets are made of cobblestones, so they are never dusty or muddy. In one place (photo 8) there was a sign I found very interesting:

THREE WELLS SYNOPSES was the title followed by a paragraph, i.e., “The water is good for the myriad things but do not struggle” The water also is the scarce resources which easiest to pollute. The pastoral stage, Naxi ancients’ occupies by the water plant, regards the water for the life fountainhead. Plough settles down the time; they pilot into the village, as soon as divides into three. Enjoy comfortably is convenient near the water live. To the cities time has created “three wells” culture. Divides into three ponds well water a water seepage, first makes the tap water; the second does washes the vegetable water; and the third does washes the water. Water three uses, did not struggle, does not snatch, has manifested the Naxi nationality  awe nature, treasured the environment the fine tradition.

  

        What I understood from this is the Naxi revere the water that runs throughout the Ancient City. The people who live here use the surrounding water for many things, i.e., as a refrigerator to wash their food, clothes, selves, etc. There is a third well that isn't in the photo. 

We were given free time both days and wandered all through the town and observed construction. John and Buck were very interested in both the building using fairly modern tools as well as building with bricks or big rocks to make the side of a home. (photos 9 & 10)

We saw an old truck with a Spiderman motif (photos 11 and 12) carrying construction materials There was a location where material was dyed and hung to dry and which you could purchase. Artists were drawing and painting various scenes. At one point, Claudia and I went down one street quite a way and judging by the peoples’ reactions, most visitors did not venture that far. That was where we saw a mother pull her child’s pants apart at the crotch so she could squat in the gutter and pee…no diapers, just a slit in the jumper for easy access. Had never heard of or seen that, but according to one of our leaders, it’s quite common.

In one area was an open-air food market where various chefs were making street food for people in the community. And then there were the dancers or performers. We don’t know the purpose, but it was enjoyable to watch. We also saw a donkey on which we could have purchased a ride. We all laughed because John’s feet would have touched the ground once he was on the donkey. We didn’t partake of food at this location, but it smelled wonderful. And, I love the photo of the old woman who danced. (photos 13-18)

We had dinner in Lijiang Old Town that evening, followed by attendance at a modern Naxi musical entitled “Lishyuijinsha” and returned to the hotel at 10:00 pm. (photos 19-23)

A couple of things I wanted to mention about our stay in Lijiang. First, apparently there's something you put in when you plumb bathrooms that keeps the sewage smell from rising. That hadn't been done in this beautiful new condominium and we had to keep the bathroom door closed because it smelled so bad. At this point, I also had some laundry done and they must have used the hottest water possible. My most favorite top came back with the red color much lighter. Finally, the second night we stayed there we were given what is considered not exactly a delicacy, but close...glasses of warm goat's milk. John was forced to drink it when he was recovering from polio and he wouldn't even taste or smell. I did, but one little taste was more than enough. I felt so very guilty because we poured the milk down the smelly toilet. Something nice though were these little tiny shopping-bag style carriers that held a single chocolate that were placed on our pillows.

The following day we visited a couple of different villages, had lunch back at the hotel and checked out. We spent the afternoon once again in Lijiang Old Town and from there went to the airport. We flew to Kunming, had dinner (my booklet says banquet) in the airport and then boarded a plane that took us to Chengdu. We arrived at our hotel at 10:30 pm. Is it any wonder we were exhausted after only five days...and there's much more to come.